Monday, December 06, 2010

Mazatlan - The Estuary


Pacifico Brewery (and a Mexican naval vessel).


Dwarfed by the Sapphire Princess.


Little Blue Herons, and lots of Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigate Birds (among others).


A bird sand bar.


There was an astonishing amount of trash along the shores of the estuary, particularly when close to the city (Mexico seems to have an even worse problem than the U.S. does regarding public trash), but as we got farther into the mangrove swamp, the amount of trash diminished to near-natural levels.


The Carmelita G. shrimper (or is this a tuna vessel?)


The largest tuna cannery in Sinaloa.


Isla de la Piedra, Cerro del Creston, and the Sapphire Princess, as seen from the distant reach of the estuary.


The Gates of Hell: an oil-fired power plant - with no pollution controls whatsoever!


The whole sky is affected by this huge plume!

Regarding this power plant with the amazingly-dirty exhaust, here is some encouraging news:
In the late summer of 2009 the oil-fired power plant near Mazatlan operated by Comision Federal de Electricidad (CFE) awarded a contract to Altrom Power to install air quality control systems. Alstrom is a Swiss based company that specializes in power development and clean air technology around the world. The work began with design and engineering to install electrostatic precipitator technology to capture and remove the larger particulate emissions (much of the “black stuff”) that is so readily visible from Estrella del Mar. The equipment installation is planned to be finished in 2011. The precipitators will filter the plant’s flue gas, greatly reducing particulate output to about one tenth of the current emissions.


The Hurricane of October, 2009 sank this shrimper.


Taking a moment away from the shrimp to wave.

A diversion of water from the estuary to feed a shrimp farm that was just out-of-sight was also pointed out to us by our guide.

Wednesday - Mazatlan

"Sail On, Titanik!"

Tequila Class

Tequila manufacture is surprisingly complicated. Here, Victor explains the differences between Silver, Reposada and Añejo Tequilas. This nomenclature is simplified for novice students like ourselves (it's hard keeping track of more than three things at a time, particularly when tasting tequila and preparing to purchase tequilas). Doña Engracia Tequilas, like many tequilas from family-owned distilleries, are made from 100% agave, unlike popular tequila mixes that are more-commonly for sale in the United States (like Patron).


Wikipedia has more details regarding tequila, including this weird detail:
In 2008, Mexican scientists discovered a method to produce tiny, nanometric size, synthetic diamonds from 80-proof (40% alcohol) tequila. This process involves heating the tequila to over 800 degrees C (1,400 degrees F) to break its molecular structure and be vaporised. The tequila particles are then settled upon steel or silicon trays to form a thin and pure uniform layer. Extremely cheap to produce and far too small for jewels, the results are hoped to have numerous commercial and industrial applications such as in computer chips or cutting instruments.
Blue Agave

The first step in tequila manufacture is removing the Blue Agave's starchy roots (piñas), from which tequila will eventually be distilled.

The Road Through Ixtapa


Ixtapa (or at least this Ixtapa - Mexico has several cities with similar names) is a working class town several miles northeast of Puerto Vallarta. Victor the tour guide explained as well as he could that, while incomes were low, rent control was in effect, so even humble folks could find homes here. The street scenes were strongly-reminiscent of places I know in New Mexico and Arizona, which just illustrates the continuities between even these distant and disparate places.


Rio Mascota.


These rooftop water units on an apartment building in Ixtapa -manufactured by Rotoplas - maintain steady water pressure for household use. This part of Mexico doesn't necessarily require rooftop rainwater tanks for drinking water like they have in Queensland, Australia - it rains enough here - but water pressure is apparently a problem. And water purification too, of course.


A big Mexican prison near Ixtapa. This is apparently the CEINJURE (Centro Integral de Justicia Costa Norte) jail (800 male, 100 female capacity).


Ixtapa scene (population of Ixtapa about 24,000).

Sunday, December 05, 2010

Tuesday - Puerto Vallarta

View looking towards downtown from the Sapphire Princess of Puerto Vallarta's beachfront high rises. Victor, our tour guide, and a lifelong resident of Puerto Vallarta, lamented the intrusion of this new kind of architecture, which he referred to as "Miamification".



Fountain in the median of a broad avenue.



Plentiful statues along Puerto Vallarta's boardwalk (El Malecon).



Beaded vest featuring Our lady of Guadalupe on this Papantla Flyer.



Papantla Flyers on Puerto Vallarta's Malecon.



Statues.



Bahia de las Banderas.



Left: A statue of Jalisco's noted governor (and PV's namesake), Ignacio Luis Vallarta.

Below: The cathedral (dating from a surprisingly-recent 1916).





Tiled staircase (Mundo de Azulejos).



Making new pieces (Mundo de Azulejos).



Painting a piece to be fired (Mundo de Azulejos).



Conejo Grande (Mundo de Azulejos).



Street scene (Mundo de Azulejos).



'El Tio Sam' - A store in Puerto Vallarta capitalizing on the imagery of Uncle Sam. Particularly since the modern symbol came into use in World War I, Uncle Sam has become a patriotic symbol in the United States, but in Mexico it has no such status and thus has apparently become a commercial symbol.

Monday Revival

On Monday, I began feeling better. After twenty-four hours, I was released from detention. I left my room immediately to walk the deck.

The ship was swarming with activities. Like sun-bathing!

They were having silly games at Neptune's Pool. Teams of young men and women competed to do things like transport water balloons and hide as many ping pong balls as possible in one's swim suit.

I tried my hand at blackjack in the casino once on Monday night, and twice on Tuesday night. Final result for the entire cruise: $25 win, plus $80 win, minus $92.50 loss, equals $17.50 win, overall.

The Meaning Of Freedom At Sea

Sunday was a very busy day for Mark and Lauren's wedding party. Not only was there a wedding, but they met the Captain, Nick Nash (who hails from that musically-famed seaport, Penzance, Cornwall), and dressed up for the ship's first Formal Night.

Alone in my room, I slept fitfully and absent-mindedly watched television when I was awake. I had time to reflect on freedom, particularly at sea.

Freedom on land is a comparatively-straightforward thing, but on sea, freedom is always compromised to some extent. One is always - always - chained to one's craft. For example, people on rafts have very, very little room to stretch their legs, but they have agency to take the raft wherever they pleased. On the other hand, there is plenty of room to stretch one's legs on a cruise liner, but the schedule of the cruise liner is very rigid. Rafters could decide on a whim to paddle to Acapulco, should they please, but nothing short of catastrophe could make this tightly-scheduled ship go there anytime soon.

And what does it mean to be detained in one's cabin on a luxury vessel? Is that a good thing, or a bad thing? There certainly are worse fates! But there are better fates too....

At about four-hour intervals, HazMat crews came into the room to do what they could to sterilize my room. They sprayed surfaces down with a special spray as they eyed me suspiciously to guess what sort of plague I might be carrying.

I noticed the HazMat crews always sprayed down the wall at head level at the foot of my bed. I thought that a bit odd: I never touched that wall, but it was easy for them to reach, and they never failed wiping it down. Instead, I always touched the wall adjacent to my bed, but they never sprayed down that surface. After a while, I decided this periodic cleansing had less to do with hygiene and more to do with religious ritual. The wiping gesture was reminiscent of the old Jewish custom of touching a door frame upon crossing a threshold - Tradition! Here, on this ship, the trouble wasn't that I was Sick: the trouble was that I was Unclean.

I didn't eat any food on Sunday. That's a ritual too. They call it fasting....

Quarantine

In the morning, I was still in a very, very bad way. My roommate John went to breakfast and returned with a plastic container full of wedding favors that he received from his son - Jelly Belly jelly beans tied into little decorative bundles. John then headed out again on deck. The wedding was going to occur soon - 1 p.m. - but I felt like hell. I decided I had to go down to the Medical Center and see if perhaps they had some medicine that might help.

In the reception area, the nurse (who had an Anglophonic accent - probably English) asked two questions: Have you thrown up, and do you have diarrhea? I answered affirmatively to both questions. Her pale skin blanched. She asked me to come into the examination room.

After getting my temperature, she brought forms to fill out to help her determine what food I had eaten, what bathrooms on ship I might have used, and who else I might have had contact with. I said I needed to get ready for a wedding in just an hour-and-a-half. She replied that I would not be attending any wedding: I was to be quarantined immediately to my room for twenty-four hours. I replied that could not be! She said :
"Paps, now you are going to be telling me you are the bride's uncle! But it doesn't matter. You will not attend. I once had to quarantine a bride on her wedding day and I certainly disregarded her protests. We take public health on this vessel very seriously. You will not attend. If we find that you are not complying with your detention, we will put you ashore in Puerto Vallarta."
I suppose I might have expected as much. In recent years, outbreaks of intestinal illnesses have sickened many on cruise ships. They would do whatever they had to do to arrest my virulent danger, up to and including exorcism, if need be.

This familiar term - "Paps" - bothered me a little too. Endearing, maybe, but under the circumstances, maybe just a little patronizing. Years ago, a stripper once called me "Poppy", and I thought was exciting, but being called "Paps" under these circumstances brought no thrill.

She had me lie down, and she listened to my bare abdomen. After last night's riot, the abdomen was quiet. She pressed near the appendix and asked if there was pain on the opposite side. Then she pressed in the same place on the opposite side and asked the same question. There was no pain on either side. She noted that I probably had not had my appendix removed, because people who have had that surgery will experience mirror-image pains. I thought that was an interesting piece of trivia, but if she wanted to know whether or not I still had an appendix, I thought she could have just looked for an appendectomy scar.

Then she asked if I had had any contacts with sick people. I hesitated. At embarkation, I had run into Natalie and Ben Wormeli. Natalie had been pulled aside for special screening by the ship's doctor, because she had answered her form in the affirmative in regards to recent illness. Could it be? Could I have caught this bug from Natalie yesterday? Who knew? I certainly didn't. I said I knew someone. She asked me for the person's name, so they could be quarantined too.

Just then, the nurse was called from outside. She asked me to finish filling in the forms she had brought me.

Alone again, I regretted my haste. No, I can't do it! Natalie is a wedding guest too! Maybe I can't go to the wedding, but I can't do this to her too! I will have to hide her identity. In place of a name, I filled in a big question mark.

Ten minutes later, the nurse returned. In the excitement of sending special HazMat crews across the ship to those locations where I had contaminated the public sphere she had lost the train of her thought regarding names and contacts. She simply had me return the filled-in forms and sent me up to my room with a few pills.

I called up Mark, the groom, and gave him the bad news that I should not attend, but was willing to defy the order in order to be there on this important day. After a hasty consultation with Lauren, Mark called back and said they'd much rather that I miss the wedding ceremony entirely rather than chance the possibility of getting bounced from the ship and missing the entire week of activities.

And they also wanted to leave a message for Mark's father, John, who was supposed to bring the jelly bean wedding favors to the ceremony: don't bother. They could not take the risk that, just by being in my proximity, the jelly beans might be carriers of disease too.

I hung up the phone. After all the elaborate preparations and expenses, I nevertheless missed Mark and Lauren's wedding....

Saturday, December 04, 2010

First Evening

My cabin mate on this cruise was John Ettensohn, father of the groom. John is currently a Roman Catholic priest of the Oblate Order, and lives in Indianapolis, IN. As it turned out, John and I had similar temperaments, and I think we were ideal roommates.

On the first evening, after dinner in the Lido Buffet, John and I took in the show in the Princess Theater, featuring James Michael (The Bad Boy of Magic), plus the Sapphire Princess Dancers & Guest Vocalists. Afterwards, we had a dinner/snack, and retired for the evening.

Well, John retired for the evening. As he fell asleep, I lay awake and grew conscious of a growing burning distress in my abdomen. What could it be? The effects of bad food perhaps? Who knew?

In the early morning hours, the intense intestinal eruption started. Worried about waking John and unable to sleep, I left the cabin and began wandering the entire ship, a specter without rest. As the hours passed, the rampaging sickness increasingly sapped my strength. Near dawn, I returned to the cabin, exhausted, and fell into fitful sleep.

Departure From Port Of Los Angeles


The Vincent Thomas Bridge on the Seaside Freeway spans the San Pedro Shipping Channel at the Port of Los Angeles.



Life vest drill.


Excited cruisers gather at the Neptune Pool on the Sapphire Princess to watch as the ship departs Los Angeles.


Shipping containers from the world over are loaded and unloaded here.


Shipping containers like Legos!


Looking back north as we proceed down the channel.


A job well done, one of our escorts does a figure-eight.


Buh-bye!

A Walk Around Hawthorne














































Departure For The Cruise

Here are some pictures I took on the flight from Sacramento to Los Angeles on November 26, 2010 to join the Mexican cruise.

Downtown Sacramento, around the train yard.


The American River (lower right) joins the Sacramento River (center), with the Sacramento Shipping Channel (upper left) also visible.


The San Andreas Fault.


The Channel Islands (left to right; Anacapa Islands, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel).


LAX

Back In Port

We arrived in port at LA early this morning. Disembarkation was kind of painful - like thousands of people trying to check out of a hotel at the same instant. We are now waiting for our various flights at LAX. I planned this leg rather badly. I could have gotten an earlier flight, but I had romantic notions of hiking LA by foot. Forgot about the luggage.... My flight leaves at 4 p.m.

Sorry about no contact for days. Internet on the ship was available, but only at a shocking 75 cents per minute. Just too high!